Tej Beat- whole new world
Talking with Kibron, we asked about the local honey wine they call tej, and Kibron promptly offered to escort us to a local beat (bar). Mostly our time in Mekelle has been spent more or less on main, wide roads, mostly because of navigational issues, but also because most churches, hospitals, and generally the types of places we go to have been on main roads.
Kibron led us through alleyways just beyond the main road, and we entered a different world entirely. The center of the path was full of large rocks, making a crude irrigation system. The smell was strong- most people simply place their garbage and waste in the street (it is washed away during the rainy season). There were impromptu business, mostly fix-it shops or vendors of assorted goods or foods, and it seems like these often double as homes for the owners. Other little holes in the corrugated metal walls were peoples homes, the front door a hinged piece of scrap metal swinging in the Mekelle wind.
The looks on most people’s faces were of surprise- it isn’t very often they see a white face come down their street. For the most part, though, we received smiles, and the tone of “faranji” was more of curiosity than the harassing/accusing tone sometimes heard on the main streets.
We walked into the tej beat, which had no sign to speak of, just another metal box lining the street. Inside was packed from wall to wall on long, picnic style tables. Many of the men were older, and holding canes, ____ (white wrap….find the name in the journal…) flung across their shoulders.
The flasks containing the tej were large large and globular on the bottom, and narrow to a long, cylindrical neck at the top. Tej is the only thing available for purchase in the beat- those seeking food or a beer need not enter.
Waitresses, the only women in the joint, wear crosses and walk from man to man, filling flaskes with the thick amber liquid. Bees fly around overhead, looking for their share of the sweet stuff.
I felt odd being the only female patron, and doubly self conscious because of my skin, and not without reason. Every head was turned towards me.
Once Kibron had a taste of the tej he had to drink two more (he later said three is too much but four is enough), and over the course of an hour and a half we discussed Ethiopian culture over sips of fermented honey.
He invited us to his home on Monday to see how he lives, something I am very much looking forward to.
It made me nervous to see the procedure for cleaning the flasks- the waitress scoops up empty glasses then cursorily dumps water (where it comes from, I have no idea) in and then out again, and fills it with tej for the next customer.
Climbing up the mountain to the church
Today we went back to the orphanage, where Connie had prepared a feast for us of tuna fish canned in water and toast.
It was wonderful to have crunchy warm bread and a nice lean protein for a change. This was actually very sacrificial of Connie, who explained that typically you can only find tuna canned in oil here, but every once in a blue moon you can find it canned in water.
After lunch she assigned one of their workers (the older orphans under employ for the orphanage) to take us up the nearby mountain to see a couple of Orthodox churches.
It was wonderful to stretch our legs (Ethiopians are very conservative in dress and although Ethiopia is famous for its runners I have not seen anyone jogging, and certainly haven’t seen any women wearing shorts. Therefore my only form of exercise has been a little yoga and walking around Mekelle, so going hiking was absolutely wonderful).
When we reached the church, I was a little disappointed that there were no priests around that we could find (I was hoping to find some of them and perhaps learn a little of the history behind the churches and take photographs inside- the light was really hot (2PM) when we got there, so the pictures of the hilltop churches aren’t that great.
However that little disappointment was easily compensated for by the amazing view. Perched up on the little summit we could see Mekelle in its entirety.
Game etched into the big stone
Kindness of the young men who were our guides